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Shared Stories. A year in the Cairngorms. An anthology

Cairngorms NATION­AL PARK Pàirc Nàiseanta a’ Mhon­aidh Ruaidh

SHARED STOR­IES

A Year in the Cairngorms

An Antho­logy

Edited by Anna Flem­ing Merryn Glover


SHARED STOR­IES

A Year in the Cairngorms

An Antho­logy

Edited by Anna Flem­ing Merryn Glover

CAIRNGORMS NATION­AL PARK AUTHOR­ITY SCOT CRE­AT­IVE LAND

UGH­DAR­RAS PAIRC NAISEANTA A’ MHON­AIDH RUAIDH WOOD­LAND TRUST ALBA CHRUTHACHAIL


First pro­duced 2019 by the Cairngorms Nation­al Park Author­ity, 14 The Square, Grant­own PH26 3HG

The authors’ right to be iden­ti­fied as an author of this book under the Copy­right, Pat­ents and Designs Act 1988 has been asserted.

Prin­ted and bound by Grover­print & Design, Newtonmore

Designed by Vic­tor­ia Bar­low Designs

Cov­er image by Stef­fan Gwyn

This book is avail­able by dona­tion to the Cairngorms Trust. See the back of the antho­logy for inform­a­tion about the Trust’s work.

A PDF edi­tion is avail­able at www​.cairngorms​.co​.uk

Cairngorms Nation­al Park Author­ity 2019


Con­tents

Intro­duc­tion 5 How to use this Book 9 The Cairngorms Lyr­ic 11

APPROACH 13

A Rocky Begin­ning Jane Mack­en­zie 14 Blastie morn­ing Isa­bell Sander­son 15 Con­spect­us Alec Fin­lay 16 Coory­ing behind a cairn Nancy Cham­bers 20 Snowy kip­pen up Cairn Toul Lucy Grant 21 Embod­i­ment Sam­antha Walton 22 First Awake Ron­nie Mack­in­tosh 24

HERE 25

The High Tongue Merryn Glover 26 Braeriach Anna Flem­ing .30 It’s blastie in the moun­tains Emma Jones 33 Cairngorms seen from Loch Mor­lich Anna Filipek 34 Avon (Ath-fhinn) Ryan Dzi­ad­owiec 35 Mith­er Dee Mary Mun­ro 36 Regen­er­a­tion Neil Reid 37 Into the Moun­tain Neil Reid 38 A‑slop, a‑squelch, a‑splorrach Vic­tor­ia Myles 41 Bàideanach Moira Web­ster 42


LEAVES AND BEAST­IES 45

Weav­ing High Worlds Linda Crack­nell 46 Red­polls and sis­kins Car­o­lyn Robertson 49 The bird song is noth­ing Xan­der John­ston .50 Lepus tim­idus Lynn Valentine 51 Robin Julia Duncan 52 Four Lyr­ics Anon 54 Birch and Row­an Hazel Elean­or Rose 55 Caper­cail­lie Tavia 56 La Mosca de Glen Tanar Eunice Janssen 57 The Birch Katy Tur­ton 58 There is unex­pec­ted beauty Eileen Suth­er­land 59 Gean leaves red­den­ing Jane Macaulay 60

LIV­ING 61

sixty two words for rainy weath­er Aman­da Thom­son 62 Caul in the Gorms Grant Moir 65 The Black Spout Mal­colm Duck­worth 66 Shut up, ye bleth­er­ing haver Cara McCub­bin 68 Liv­ing in the Wilds Ruth Edward 69 Sit­ting on the grey water Anon 70 Glen Ey Inter­gla­cial Mike Wilkes 71 My feet squelched Eoin Jones 72 The Dwell­er and the Guest Kar­en Hodg­son Pryce 73 Winter Roost Adam Streeter-Smith 75 I feel free Anon 76 Love Lynn Cas­sells 77 Atop the cnoc Catri­ona Clubb 78

Author Bio­graph­ies 80 Acknow­ledge­ments 82 The Cairngorms Trust 83


Intro­duc­tion MERRYN GLOVER

It’s a very power­ful thing to fall in love. Lynn Cas­sells, p 77

This book is a story of the heart. It is a col­lec­tion of writ­ings from very dif­fer­ent people with one thing in com­mon: their inter­ac­tions with the rocky heart of Scot­land, the Cairngorms. As you will see, it is what Nan Shep­herd called a traffic of love’.

The antho­logy arises from the 2019 pro­ject Shared Stor­ies: A Year in the Cairngorms. Organ­ised and part-fun­ded by the Cairngorms Nation­al Park Author­ity, with addi­tion­al fund­ing from the Wood­land Trust and Cre­at­ive Scot­land, the pro­ject set out to encour­age people to write cre­at­ively about how we and nature thrive togeth­er. As the first Writer in Res­id­ence for the Cairngorms Nation­al Park, my role was to facil­it­ate this work through a var­ied pro­gramme of activ­it­ies tak­ing me all over the bens and glens of the Cairngorms and into the com­pany of count­less folk. There were open work­shops in three loc­a­tions, drop-ins at the Cairngorms Nature Big Week­end and Forest Fest, and work­shops with schools, rangers, health walk groups, edu­cat­ors, land-based work­ers, out­door instruct­ors and Park volun­teers. We invited every­one to the table and wel­comed every voice.

Through­out the year, rich con­ver­sa­tions emerged about people’s exper­i­ences of the nat­ur­al world of the Cairngorms, wheth­er they were born-and-bred loc­als, set­tlers or tour­ists passing through. Inev­it­ably, there are as many per­spect­ives as there are people. There can be con­tro­versy and con­flicts of interest across the Nation­al Park, but the space for shared cre­at­ive activ­ity enabled us to exchange views with open-ness and interest, rather than argument.

The groups I atten­ded had some really great insights into the land­scape, nature and ways of life that I had not seen before. BLAIR ATHOLL PARTICIPANT

A Year in the Cairngorms | 5


6 Most people claim to value nature, to see it as both beau­ti­ful and neces­sary, but most of us have blind spots about the ways in which we threaten it. A key ele­ment of the pro­ject, there­fore, was to address blind spots. Not by expos­ing ignor­ance or harm­ful life­styles, but by turn­ing the focus the oth­er way and open­ing our eyes to nature: encour­aging us to peer deeply, to pay atten­tion, to dis­cov­er the com­plex­ity and won­der of the world around. We appealed to the senses, going out­side wherever pos­sible to tune into the sights, smells, sounds and feel­ings of a place. Some­times I spread forest finds across a table – moss, lichen, leaves, stones and branches – and we focused on one small thing. Much like Linda Crack­nell in Weav­ing High Worlds on page 46, people dis­covered infin­ite dimensions.

Attend­ing the Shared Stor­ies work­shops changed the way I appre­ci­ated the Cairngorms. I saw a rich­ness of col­our and depth of tex­ture that had pre­vi­ously passed me by. BAL­LATER PARTICIPANT

But more than just dis­cov­ery, the pro­ject invited people to cap­ture their encoun­ters in words. In try­ing to find the right words, we are forced to pay even closer atten­tion and move bey­ond assump­tions. What exactly is the col­our of that sky – here, now? How sur­pris­ing that this clump of earthy moss smells like medi­cine, not dirt. And when we make atten­tion a habit – a way of being in the world – we begin to notice how aston­ish­ing, how pre­cious and how vul­ner­able nature is. Alec Fin­lay in Con­spect­us, page 16 talks of the power of look­ing.’ We become aware of what is here, what is lost and what is on the brink. It becomes a gaze of love. And, I hope, of com­mit­ted action. We will look after what we love.

Thank you for open­ing our eyes and ears. | Shared Stor­ies KIN­GUSSIE PARTICIPANT


An import­ant thread through Shared Stor­ies has been the cel­eb­ra­tion of lan­guages. In the work­shops, we explored the Gael­ic, Scots and Pic­tish place names of the Cairngorms, along with the rich lex­icon of loc­al words for the out­doors. Aman­da Thomson’s A Scots Dic­tion­ary of Nature was an inspir­a­tion­al source, as you will see from her sixty two words for rainy weath­er on page 62 Early in the year, I inven­ted the poet­ic form the Cairngorms Lyr­ic (page 11) which proved a dynam­ic tool for enabling all kinds of people to cap­ture a Cairngorms moment while also enjoy­ing lan­guage diversity. Folks were delighted to dis­cov­er they could write the entire Lyr­ic in their own lan­guage and I was delighted in turn to hear many dif­fer­ent lan­guages join­ing the Shared Stor­ies throng. That is why a Span­ish Lyr­ic is included in this col­lec­tion, along with poems in Gael­ic and Doric.

Being able to use my own lan­guage makes me feel I belong. ABER­NETHY PARTICIPANT

A fun­da­ment­al aspect of the pro­ject has been the shar­ing of the stor­ies. This always happened in the work­shops, of course, but also spilled out onto eight ban­ners dis­played in Loc­al Inform­a­tion Centres across the Park. We held an open mic night as part of the new Badenoch Fest­iv­al in Septem­ber, draw­ing both work­shop par­ti­cipants and oth­ers to tell their tales. In addi­tion, we encour­aged input from any­body, any­where, who would like to express their Cairngorms nature encoun­ters, and these pieces – from as far afield as the US and Aus­tralia – appear on our pro­ject blog: shared­stor­i­es­cairngorms. tumblr​.com It has been excit­ing, too, to see Shared Stor­ies activ­it­ies in oth­er con­texts, such as RSPB’s Sarah Walk­er get­ting Juni­or Rangers to write Cairngorms Lyr­ics at Insh Marshes.

For me, it has been a year of gifts. I have learnt so much from my own traffic with this place and its people and have a head hum­ming with exper­i­ences, images and words. Some of these have taken shape in A Year in the Cairngorms | 7


8 my blog about the pro­ject, Writ­ing the Way, and oth­ers are emer­ging as poems, but much of it if will con­tin­ue to find voice in the years to come, I am sure. For this store of treas­ure, I am deeply grateful.

This antho­logy, there­fore, seeks to cap­ture the range of voices and exper­i­ences that have respon­ded to Shared Stor­ies: A Year in the Cairngorms. The work here spans young chil­dren to a woman in her 80s; aca­dem­ics to farm­ers; loc­als’ to vis­it­ors. There are works com­mis­sioned from four pro­fes­sion­al authors and anonym­ous pieces found amongst papers at the end of drop-in work­shops; there are poems and prose pieces; ser­i­ous reflec­tions and com­ic encoun­ters; endur­ing memor­ies and lumin­ous visions.

Through­out, these voices express the shared sense that we, in our human­ity, are part of nature and integ­ral to this place. In the earth’s thriv­ing, is our own thriv­ing; in the well-being of the Cairngorms envir­on­ment, is the well-being of its com­munity. As Sam­antha Walton says in Embod­i­ment, page 22 How rare to be alive to all this’.

We invite you to cel­eb­rate with us this shared life – and this shared love – of the Cairngorms. Shared Stories


How to use this Book ANNA FLEMING

With­in these pages, you will find a vari­ety of poetry and prose. There are stor­ies of joy and curi­os­ity, moments of fear and lyr­ic­al descrip­tions of deep reverence.

The book is arranged into four them­at­ic sec­tions. Approach fea­tures dis­cov­ery, begin­nings and routes into the Cairngorms. Here focuses on spe­cif­ic places, includ­ing moun­tains and rivers, and ways of depict­ing them, such as through place names and stor­ies. Leaves and Beast­ies looks at the more-than-human life in plants, anim­als, birds and insects. Finally, Liv­ing explores the tex­ture of daily life in the Park, with writ­ing on weath­er, adven­ture, love and neigh­bours. While the book is care­fully arranged, you can read it in any order. Dip in and out. Find the pieces that speak to you and come back to them.

We would like you to see this antho­logy as a guide to your explor­a­tions of the Cairngorms Nation­al Park. Through the words here, you will find com­pany: people who have trod­den the path before you; someone else who has gazed on a row­an or an ant; or a per­son whose exper­i­ence and per­spect­ive lies far bey­ond your own. Words come to life when you read them aloud. Read parts with friends, your dog, your fam­ily or even a nearby tree. Enjoy the sounds of the words. Feel them shape your tongue. Make your own moun­tain voice. Take this book out to the hills and woods or bring the Cairngorms indoors.

We hope the antho­logy helps you to see old things in new ways and new things in dif­fer­ent ways. Play with lan­guage. Be inspired. Have a go at mak­ing your own cre­at­ive responses to the incred­ible world we live in. A Year in the Cairngorms | 9


10 Sug­ges­ted activ­it­ies Teach­ers, out­door instruct­ors, rangers and group facil­it­at­ors can use this antho­logy for Out­door Learn­ing and experiences.

Select a few pieces to read out­doors or in the classroom. Dis­cuss: • How do the writers cap­ture their exper­i­ences? • What do you find sur­pris­ing? • How does one piece com­pare to another?

Think about the struc­ture of this antho­logy. We chose the them­at­ic sec­tions: APPROACH, HERE, LEAVES and BEAST­IES, AND LIV­ING. • Do you think some of the pieces would fit in a dif­fer­ent sec­tion? • How else could the book have been organ­ised? • Can you think of dif­fer­ent them­at­ic headings?

Make your own cre­at­ive responses to the words, ideas and images. Try draw­ing, paint­ing, col­lage, dance or act­ing. For instance, how could you per­form Aman­da Thomson’s sixty two words for rainy weather?

Write your own Cairngorms Lyr­ics. an inter­act­ive Use the antho­logy along­side Lit­er­ary Land­scapes map and resource on place names, cul­ture, nature and her­it­age in the Cairngorms. Lit­er­ary Land­scapes can be found on the Cairngorms Nation­al Park website.

For more activ­it­ies and resources vis­it: https://​cairngorms​.co​.uk/​c​a​r​i​n​g​-​f​u​t​u​r​e​/​e​d​u​c​a​tion/ Shared Stories


The Cairngorms Lyr­ic This is a new kind of poem inven­ted for Shared Stor­ies: A Year in the Cairngorms. It is inspired by forms like the Japan­ese Haiku and the Amer­ic­an Sen­tence, but unique to the Cairngorms. A Lyr­ic’ is a poet­ic form that expresses per­son­al feel­ings but includes a wide range of styles and structures.

The Cairngorms Lyr­ic is made up of • fif­teen words* • an ele­ment of nature from the Cairngorms • a word or name of non-Eng­lish ori­gin (e.g. Pic­tish, Scots and Gael­ic place-names)

It can be in any lan­guage. It can be any line length, num­ber of lines, num­ber of sen­tences and punc­tu­ation. It can include rhyme or not and can have a title, includ­ing or in addi­tion to the 15 words.

You will find a grow­ing num­ber of Cairngorms Lyr­ics online as well as a selec­tion in this antho­logy, includ­ing the con­nec­ted series The High Tongue by Merryn Glover.

Read through the selec­tion in this antho­logy, fol­low the steps above and have a go at writ­ing your own!

  • 15 words because: the Park was estab­lished in 2003. It includes 5 loc­al author­it­ies. It has 5 of the 6 highest moun­tains in Scot­land: Ben Mac­dui, Braeriach, Cairn Toul, Sgor an Lochain Uaine, Cairn Gorm Its waters flow into 5 of Scotland’s most fam­ous rivers. The Spey, The Dee, The Don, The Tay and The Esk 3 x 5 = 15 A Year in the Cairngorms | 11

12 Shared Stories


APPROACH A Year in the Cairngorms | 13


14 A Rocky Begin­ning Shared Stor­ies The first time I walked in the Cairngorms, I almost didn’t. We took a short­cut’ straight up the route of the ski-lift at Glen­shee, on scud­ding scree, and unfor­giv­ing shale, with knees frail and heart protest­ing. I turned back twice, heav­ing my breath in ragged rasps; not my idea of leis­ure. Then stag­ger­ing, over the burst lip, an atlas unfurled to the hori­zon, ancient gods stretch­ing out their cal­loused hands, to greet mine, invit­ing me onward in unut­ter­able tongues. JANE MACKENZIE


On a blastie morn­ing we gath­er to wander through the woods watch­ing squir­rels at play ISA­BELL SANDER­SON A Year in the Cairngorms | 15


Con­spect­us ALEC FIN­LAY Where are we? It’s a ques­tion that mat­ters to some people more than oth­ers. There are climbers who will spend days in a fever climb­ing peaks whose names they don’t know. In the pub the hikers tell their route, pla­cing the salt and pep­per shaker. Remem­ber to turn left at the fork. Names are what’s needed to get you to and from the car park. The ris­ki­er a jour­ney is the more names it has. There are tra­di­tion­al poems in the Hebrides which list sailor’s land­marks. Each reef and skerry needed a name. Even today Ian Steph­en has a love poem that will guide your tiller safely into Storno­way har­bour. I don’t walk far. I’ve nev­er climbed a moun­tain. Ill­ness pro­duces dark pools of lact­ic if I go up a minor slope. What I need, what I love, are places to gaze at the land­scape. Con­spect­us. They are the right places to look out from. They’ve always exis­ted. I only gave them their name, con­spect­us, to insist on the import­ance of view­points and appre­ci­ate what we gain – espe­cially those of us with con­strained walk­ing – if we see with atten­tion. If, as Emer­son says, the eye needs a hori­zon for its own good, must the line be made by walk­ing? There are tra­di­tions that under­stood the power of look­ing. Maps of the High­lands name seats, suidhe, and chairs, cath­aoir, where kings, chiefs and saints asser­ted their power. There are dumha slega and eilreig, the ancient mounds of the blood rite where Gaels would watch the hunt. Later these became spy­ing hil­locks for deer-stalk­ers. Go to a dùn and you’ll usu­ally find your­self a good view. A con­spect­us is a place where ter­rain reveals itself. A view­point where the land­scape makes the kind of sense we need. The eye falls on the here, here, and here, of the hills that sur­round us. What makes a con­spect­us exist is say­ing the names of each sum­mit in turn. All I do is write them down. This con­spect­us was made at Auchtavan, in upper Glen Feardar, with the help of Gill Rus­sell. It con­tains the names of wild-cats, Gael­ic col­ours, tits, hags, a priest, a saddle, and a spoon-like crag. Between the names there are stor­ies. 16 Shared Stories


BRING­ING THE HILLS TOSINGLE POINT con­spect­us N

MEIKLE PAP CAISTEAL NA CAIL­LICH MOUNT KEEN CON­ACHCRAIG CRE­AG NAN GALL CARN AN T‑SAIGART MOR THE STUIC CAC CARN BEAG CNAPAN NATH­RAICHEAN MEALL AN TIO­N­AIL RIPE HILL CRAIG DOIN MEALL ALVIE CRE­AG NA SPAINE CANUP LEAC GORM CARN NAM BLAITHEAN CARN NA DRO­CHAIDE MEALL GORM CNOCAN MOR CRE­AG A’ CHAIT CRE­AG BHALG

Auchtavan ΝΟ 20684 95567 A Year in the Cairngorms 17


Col­our Trend A con­spect­us is a remind­er that eye-lines travel around a cir­cu­lar field, until they reach where we but­ton up at the back. Col­our place- names, arranged into col­our wheels, poems, or trends (paths), are a kind of look­ing that return us to walk­ing. Bealach Dearg, is the Red-way Pass, lead­ing from Inver­cauld, on by Loch Builg, to Tomin­toul. Bal­loch­buie, from Bealach Buidhe, is the Yel­low-way Pass. These names belong to ancient drove roads, or, to one con­tinu­ing drove that stretches on either side of the River Dee. Dearg is named for pink­ish red gran­ite, even if it is grey with lichen. Bal­loch­buie refers to the moor­grass bey­ond the great wood. These path names are com­mon-sense judge­ments of what is under­foot. To the east, past Gairn­side, there’s anoth­er drove, the Ca’ Du, Dark Cross­ing, between Glen Con­rie and Glen Carvie. Anoth­er path of the same name led from Dunandhu to Blairnamar­row, in Glen Con­glass. Ca is from cadha, a nar­row pass. These are things you needed to know. And the dark or black, well, John Mil­ne says they were known as black roads. His trans­la­tions can be fanci­ful but, in this case, I agree, as dark names refer to moss or peat roads. They were a warn­ing to take care if cattle were being driv­en in wet weath­er. More help­ful advice comes from Peter Drum­mond, who notes that liath names indic­ate grey mica schist, which should be sure to stand on. In a won­der­ful pas­sage of obser­va­tion John MacInnes gives glas as the col­our of the land that one walks over between the arable land and the moor, put­ting the town­ship at one’s back. In my first book on place-aware­ness, Some Col­our Trends, the Eng­lish trans­la­tion I gave for the dark roads was Peats­mirched-trends. Ima­gine clean­ing that off your boots. 18 Shared Stories


D red yel­low H way way É A Year in the Cairngorms | 19


20 Shared Stor­ies Coory­ing behind a cairn Cold wind hurt­ling Eyes squint­ing Lashes fil­ter­ing snow Grim­ace, Brace, Go… NANCY CHAMBERS


Snowy kip­pen up Cairn Toul. Blend­ing wi’ the snaw, Bleth­er­in’ wi’ the imaky-amaky. Scary, scary! LUCY GRANT, SPEY­SIDE HIGH SCHOOL A Year in the Cairngorms | 21


22 Embod­i­ment after Nan Shep­herd I’ve tasted ice high on the hull of the hill plunged hands into snow & coun­ted ten to taste time to feel the cold world dream­ing Clouds, grey on the under­sides race by ile flot­tante pierced by lun­ar rays, cos­mic radi­ation the val­ley spread around me like a bed laid with the care­less­ness of gla­ciers The eye is choked with so much trash dead men’s thoughts I stand on my head lift arms high so the light touches my fin­ger­tips first any­thing to dis­miss the tired old ways of see­ing I want more than a sea change I want freez­ing wind a sheet of snow a wave, an ice storm some­thing fierce as a hur­ricane to blast the stony world Shared Stories


The body is like a sheet the body is a flute the body is a kind of cool and teas­ing air I float, I sing with it, patiently, I dance eyes flick­er­ing to the path whose pur­pose can be seen for miles invit­ing wit­ness from the grey­est reaches of sight, from the sky from the earth itself I swal­low light, sound cup the hands round the shell of the ear & hear crys­tal the planet’s sticky insides melt­ing, reform­ing how rare to be alive to all this, & so open I walk with my hands with my tongue over the purple skin of the blae­berry touch the skein of the moor’s root with skin that is barely (that is com­pletely) human SAM­ANTHA WALTON A Year in the Cairngorms | 23


24 | Shared Stor­ies First Awake Morn­ing sun sits atop pine in bright, clear sky. Woods­moke lifts and drifts above; white wisps cap­tured in icy air. Hot cof­fee, held in trem­bling hands, mim­ics the chimney’s morn­ing breath. Over­head, a hawk hov­ers, stills, swoops then catches. Hunter and prey, for a moment, cap­tured against the powder blue. RON­NIE MACKINTOSH


HERE A Year in the Cairngorms | 25


26 | Shared Stor­ies The High Tongue MERRYN GLOVER A series of Cairngorms Lyr­ics on the Gael­ic names of the Cairngorms mountains

Ben Mac­Dui – Beinn Mac­Duibh The Moun­tain of the Son of Duff High King of Thun­der Old Grey Man Chief of the Range Head of the Clan

Cairn Gorm – An Càrn Gorm The Blue Moun­tain Rain­bow height: blae­berry bog brown red deer snow white black­bird dog viol­et moss green bright


Cairn Toul – Càrn an t‑Sabhail The Barn Shaped Moun­tain Store­house of stone Boulders shoul­der­ing like beasts in this dark byre Hail drum­ming the watershed

Ben Vuirich – Beinn a’ Bhùirich Moun­tain of the Roar­ing Once the haunt of wolves howl­ing at night now just their ghosts in fail­ing light

Carn Eal­er – Carn an Fhidh­leir Moun­tain of the Fid­dler She plays the rock with the bow of the wind for the stars to dance A Year in the Cairngorms | 27


Braeriach — Am Bràigh Riabhach The Brindled Upland freckled speckled wind rippled shape shift­ing fallen sky dark light shad­ow bright land up high

Beinn a’ Bhuird The Moun­tain of the Table Giants gath­er in clouds of black for a bite and a bleth­er, bit of craic.

Coire an t‑Sneachda – Coire an t‑Sneachdaidh Cor­rie of the Snow Bowl of white light black rock wind run ice hold hol­low of the mountain’s hand 28 | Shared Stories


Ben A’an – Beinn Athf­hinn Moun­tain of the River A’an in a cleft of silence hid­den loch secret river name breathed out like a sigh

Am Mon­adh Ruadh The Red Moun­tains Range of rus­set hills forged in fire at first sun­rise old rust rock glow­ing still A Year in the Cairngorms | 29


30 Braeriach ANNA FLEM­ING How does one know a moun­tain? Of all the moun­tains in the Cairngorms, there is some­thing about Braeriach. It is not the tallest one here across the Lairig Ghru, Ben Mac­dui stands a little high­er. Byn­ack More and Ben Mhead­hoin have more inter­est­ing sum­mits, stud­ded with weathered gran­ite tors that delight hand and eye. Braeriach is vast and subtle. At the top, one does not find a peak, but a widen­ing plat­eau that rolls out into Am Moine Mhor (the Great Moss) and sharpens at the edges, lead­ing on into the more defined peaks of Sgòr an Lochain Uaine and Cairn Toul. Braeriach means brindled upland’ and, per­haps more than any oth­er single moun­tain here, the hill encap­su­lates the Cairngorms. From Strath­spey, Braeriach seems access­ible. A coat­ing of snow brings light and shad­ow, reveal­ing vivid details in Braeriach’s exposed flanks and cor­ries. The moun­tain advances. But looks are decept­ive. Braeriach is a long way. You must allow for eight hours of steady walk­ing, ascend­ing over one thou­sand metres. On short winter days, this means start­ing in the dark. The first time I walked up Braeriach, the mist was down. We spent hours walk­ing in thick, damp cloud, fol­low­ing a trail of dis­turbed pink gran­ite through grass, lichen and boulders. I was des­per­ate to know the moun­tain: I wanted to reach the sum­mit and take in the views – but there were no views. With vis­ib­il­ity reduced to a few damp metres, I wondered, what makes this Braeriach and not any oth­er cloud-clad hill? What can my body tell me about this place? I noticed the rise and fall of the ground. The gradi­ent eased and I grew cold. A ptar­mig­an scuttled away, snarling through the rocks. We passed iron-brown tubes scattered among clean, shin­ing met­al plates: the mangled remains of an air­plane. Wind blas­ted up gul­lies and gran­ite but­tresses. We found an edge and called it the top. Last Octo­ber, I dis­covered anoth­er aspect of Braeriach. One Sunday a sur­prise snow­fall dus­ted the autumn leaves. The moun­tains gleamed white. I headed up Glen Ein­ich to the deep gla­cial loch that Shared Stories


nestles with­in a tower­ing horse­shoe of hills. I walked with long­ing. Over­head, Braeriach shone. Per­haps I should change my plans, make a detour, push up the slopes, and climb the hill. But the snow was fresh and deep. The effort would be immense. All was not lost. At the loch, I found Braeriach. The moun­tain was held in the water. The dis­tant sky­line landed at my feet in a per­fect mir­ror image. I stud­ied the sur­face, read­ing the hol­lows, pock­ets, streams and cor­ries. Each line was sharpened by snow. Then I looked through the mir­ror. In the crys­tal water, I saw the rocky sur­face of a dis­tant plan­et. Soften­ing my eyes, I allowed the ele­ments to mingle. Water, moun­tain, snow, stone and sky. Smooth and rough. Dark and light. Reflec­tion and shad­ow. The moun­tain was in the loch and the loch was in the moun­tain. As I watched, the dark stream-lines began to stretch and bend. The moun­tain was pulled apart – bars twis­ted in widen­ing zig-zags before the elast­ic snapped and the image frag­men­ted. Braeriach retreated. Wind had ruffled the sur­face. Recently, I returned for anoth­er shot at the prob­lem. This May, surely, I would get the sum­mit views. Surely, this time, I would grasp Braeriach. The fore­cast seemed fair; the days were long. Down in the strath, green surged across the fields. Gorse burned golden and the hills deepened into indigo. Cuckoos and wil­low warblers sang from new leafed birch. Yet spring had not reached the moun­tain. The hill­side was bleached brown and yel­low. A cater­pil­lar sat on the corner of a stone, clad in a thick coat. High­er up, the boulder field was half-sub­merged in a still white sea. The snow formed frozen crusts and eddies around the stones. High­er still, the sun broke through, ignit­ing the crys­tals. The moment was Alpine. (Pause for sun lotion and sunglasses). High­er again: I reached the sum­mit ridge, and snow blew in. Thick feath­er flakes flew and swirled on a slight breeze, pat­ter­ing against my hood. The hills dis­ap­peared. All turned white and grey. The flakes hardened into poly­styrene balls. I had climbed back into winter. Time stretched as I paced the drifts, hop­ing for a clear­ing. Space A Year in the Cairngorms | 31


became sur­real. I had walked into the immense and remote plat­eau but as the storm moved in, I could see and hear only a few metres. I hunkered down inside my hood, hat and mit­tens. The quiet was eer­ie. The air was still, yet full of snow. I had met no one all day, but as I waded back to the sum­mit, sud­denly someone was right at my heels, crunch­ing the snow behind me. I span around – and there was no one there. Unsettled, I con­tin­ued. Back at the sum­mit, I got my win­dow. The snow eased and space expan­ded. Dis­tance returned. I saw thick cor­nices hanging over the Lairig Ghru and there was Lochan Uaine, a steely grey mir­ror below the Angel’s peak. Sun light fell on a south­ern hill. I turned back, and the ele­ments intens­i­fied. Sky met ground in a driv­ing flurry of wet snow. Foot­prints faded. The white-out was bewil­der­ing. Everything looked the same. I could be any­where. I turned around to check the con­di­tions behind me, and was instantly dis­or­i­ent­ated. In this sky­less, ground­less, fea­ture­less white, I almost went the wrong way. And so my jour­neys into Braeriach reveal and frus­trate. The moun­tain advances – I am drawn in; the moun­tain retreats – I am pushed back. When the moun­tain is gen­er­ous, I land and soar. An eye blinks, and the moun­tain closes in. Braeriach sharpens its teeth and I become a ptar­mig­an, scur­ry­ing for shel­ter, snarling through the boulders. 32 | Shared Stories


It’s blastie in the moun­tains On the side of the crag Where the eagle rests. EMMA JONES, KIN­GUSSIE HIGH SCHOOL A Year in the Cairngorms | 33


Cairngorms seen from Loch Mor­lich Today they are grim, dis­con­tent, mono­chro­mat­ic, look­ing down with a cold stare. You are not worthy to face them. If you are lucky, wind may bring hope. Sud­denly, a tent­at­ive ray of gold, a spot­light gets their approv­al, the world’s gears shift… And they bathe in sun­light, flares of car­a­mel, sum­mer fields, shades of green. They relax and breathe, a smile reveals all their wrinkles. Go, the eld­ers are call­ing! 34 | Shared Stor­ies ANNA FILIPEK


Avon (Ath-fhinn) The Ford of Fionn, a tale of tears, gla­cial melt across the years. RYAN DZI­AD­OWIEC A Year in the Cairngorms | 35


Mith­er Dee Hot­ter­in an ooz­in fae the Wells o’ Dee, The river winds lang on her wey tae the Sea. Ower Braeriach’s grim cliff, she loups tae the Glen, Neath craggy, auld faces o’ harsh moun­tain bens. Bub­blin an chat­ter­in in grey-gran­ite rills, Swalled wi the peat-burns fae shel­ter­in hills. Doon at the Linn, roar­in thro’ the sco­ored gorge, Then spread­in her fin­gers afore bonny Mar Lodge. She hoves doon the Val­ley fae Brae­mar tae the Sea, Past auld Scots pines an bonny, green lea. Thro’ low-hingin laricks an fir-scen­ted tang, She gaith­ers her bairns, grow­in wider an strang. The hert o’ the Val­ley, aye lo’ed by her ain, The Dee cuts the land, like a life-bring­in vein. Fyles, roar­in in spate or flow­in sae calm, The soon o’ her waaters aye like a balm. The fowk o’ the Glen are bit here for a fyle, Bit etern­al, auld Dee flows on mile upon mile, Teem­in her bounty intae the muckle saat Sea, Like a Mith­er, aye faith­ful, this bonny-bit Dee. 36 | Shared Stor­ies MARY MUNRO


Regen­er­a­tion Loused fae the darg: sun­rise on weel kent hills, new trees keekin ower the heath­er. NEIL REID A Year in the Cairngorms | 37


38 Into the Moun­tain: Garbh Choire Mor NEIL REID A dished out hol­low of snow, sharp, gran­ite scree rising steeply before me, dis­ap­pear­ing into a cold grey void. A crack, a clack, a rattle. Impossible to identi­fy a dir­ec­tion, but it’s not the first stone that has fallen while I’ve stood here, nor will it be the last. I am alone. I feel alone. Uneas­ily so. Nan Shep­herd talks of walk­ing out of the body and into the moun­tain as a meta­phor for heightened focus and per­cep­tion; here, in the fur­thest reaches of the Garbh Choire Mor I feel I have walked out of the world and into the moun­tain – lit­er­ally. The Cairngorms have many faces and I have loved – and do love them all: the lush river banks, the bird­song-filled quiet of the pine­woods, the aus­tere beauty of the wind-scoured desert plat­eau. I enjoy auld man­nie naps on the hill­sides in sum­mer sun, have stood for an hour in con­ten­ted con­tem­pla­tion in a winter white-out. The Cairngorms have been mine since I was a child, and I theirs. But here is dif­fer­ent. There is no wel­come here, no com­fort. To jour­ney into the Garbh Choire Mor is, as truly as is pos­sible, to jour­ney into the moun­tain; a pil­grim­age not into its heart, but into an open sore, unhealed, raw edges act­ively pluck­ing at the smooth waves of plat­eau which are thus

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